JACKETS
full dress = a.k.a. tails or tailcoat
cutaway = a.k.a morning coat. They are short in the
front and long in the back. Tapers from the front to a
wide back tail. Usually reserved for "Morning or Daytime"
weddings
mandarin = standup style coat with no lapels.
tuxedo = "regular" coat
stroller = semi-formal suit jacket
single-breasted = in regards to jacket; symmetrical
front; buttons at the center; more common than double-
breasted; option of leaving coat buttoned or unbuttoned
double- breasted = in regards to jacket; one side of
coat overlaps the center and buttons across to the other
side; usually gives a fuller look in the chest area;
suggested that these coats be buttoned at all times while
standing
LAPELS
Notch lapel = triangular indentation in lapel
Shawl collar = rounded lapels
Peak lapel = V-shaped lapel that points upward
TROUSERS
Trousers should match the jacket. Most tuxedo trousers
will have the satin stripe going down the side or each leg.
Exception: If you're wearing a stroller or cutaway for a
daytime formal wedding, you will most likely wear black
trousers without the satin stripe, grey, or grey/black pin-
striped trousers.
COAT AND TROUSER MATERIAL
Worsted Wool = 100% Wool fabric (standard); thread
count is generally 60 - 75 threads per inch.
Super 100's = finer and softer wool that Super 100's;
thread count is 100 threads per inch.
Geoffrey Beene makes a gorgeous Super 100's tuxedo.
Andrew Fezza also features a Super 100 with "Comfort
Stretch"
Super 110's = even softer than the Super 100's; thread
count is 110 threads per inch.
Lubiam has tuxedos in this category.
Super 120's = I'm sure you can guess -- even softer;
thread count is 120 threads per inch.
Lubiam tuxedos dominate this prestigous category.
However, Andrew Fezza just came out with a couple
gorgeous tuxedos with the finest of Super 120 fabric.
SHIRTS
Wingtip = standup collar with downward points. Most
popular and most formal choice.
Mandarin = standup collar without the points.
Down collar = Similar to your standard dress shirt
Crosswick = Crosses in front and is fastened with a
button cover
Material options = 100% cotton, poly/cotton blend,
micofiber, pique, or pinwale pique
French cuffs = folded over and closed with cufflinks
Convertible cuffs = not folded over; closed with
cufflinks
VESTS / CUMMERBUNDS
Full back = material is on back of vest; covers back of
shirt
Open back = no material on back; back of shirt is
visible
Cummerbunds = pleated swatches worn around the
waist; the pleats should be facing upward
NECKWEAR
Bowtie = most traditional tie option; self-tie or pre-tied
Eurotie = square bottomed tie and knotted at the neck;
pre-tied
4-in-hand tie = similar to ties you were with a casual
suit. Usually pre-tied
Sharpe = wider tie with wrinkled knot (see photo of
Celebrity Paisley Vest by Andrew Fezza)
Ascot = wide tie which is folded over; pre-tied
Bolo = "Western" tie
JEWELRY
Studs = set of 4 button-like pieces that are used in lieu
of the button down the shirt. Studs should always be
used with formal shirts.
Cufflinks = set of 2 pieces which fasten a formal shirt's
cuffs. Cufflinks should always be used with formal
shirts.
Button Cover = larger piece which is used in lieu of a
bowtie. It is used with a mandarin or crosswick style
